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Korsetter på väg tillbaka

Korsetter gick ur modet på 1920-talet i Europa och Amerika och ersattes med gördlar och elastiska behåar, men överlevde som ett kostymplagg. Från att ursprungligen ha varit ett underklädesplagg har korsetter blivit ett populärt ytterplagg i subkulturer som fetisch, BDSM och goth.

I fetisch- och BDSM-litteraturen ligger tonvikten ofta på tightlacing. I detta fall bärs korsetter fortfarande ofta som underplagg snarare än ytterplagg.

Korsetten återupplivades för en kort period i slutet av 1940-talet och början av 1950-talet i form av midjekorsetten som ibland kallas waspie. Denna användes för att ge den timglasformade figuren som påbjöds av Christian Diors ”The New Look”. Dock var midjekorsetter haute couture och användningen därför begränsad, och de flesta kvinnor fortsatte att använda gördlar. Denna återupplivning var kort och The New Look gav snart vika för mindre dramatiskt formade silhuetter.

Sedan senare delen av 1980-talet har korsetter upplevt periodiska återupplivningar som vanligen haft sina rötter i haute couture och ibland letat sig ner till det allmänna modet. Dessa återupplivningar fokuserar på korsetten som ett ytterplagg snarare än ett underplagg. Den största av dessa återupplivningar sågs i modekollektionerna under hösten 2001 och sammanföll med premiären av filmen Moulin Rouge, vars kostymuppsättning innehöll åtskilliga korsetter.

Majoriteten av plaggen som säljs som ”korsetter” (eller ibland som ”korsettoppar”) under dessa sentida återupplivningar kan, i ordets traditionella bemärkelse, inte räknas som korsetter alls. Medan de ofta är försedda med snörning och stödskenor och vanligtvis efterliknar historiska korsettstilar har de väldigt liten, om ens någon, kroppsformande effekt på bäraren. Traditionella korsetter kräver också i regel individuell avpassning av en skräddare som specialiserat sig på korsettmakeri.

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